KARL MAYER and Lenzing partner to advance warp knitting using scalable cellulose fibre solutions for sustainable textile production.
The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulosic fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, together with KARL MAYER, the global market leader in warp knitting machines and warp preparation systems, debut a joint innovation project during Premiere Vision, Paris.
The collaboration focusing on identifying new, efficient ways to process Lenzing’s TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibers with Micro Technology, made from the natural material wood, sourced from certified or controlled sources /1/ and manufactured using a responsible production process with a low environmental impact /2/, on warp knitting machines, whilst demonstrating their suitability for high-quality textile applications.
TENCEL™Lyocell and Modal fibers produced with Micro Technology are characterized by their fine titers which enable the production of finer yarns, resulting in smooth and consistent fabrics that deliver softness and lightness for enhanced comfort, whilst yielding superior drape and movement.
Cellulose fibers offer consistent fiber length uniformity, forming the basis for high mechanical performance. Despite this advantage, the production of warp-knitted fabrics from cellulose fibers presents significant technical challenges. To address this complexity, the two partners joined forces to develop a new innovation project; Lenzing contributing extensive expertise in fiber production and yarn development, including the downstream spinning process, whilst KARL MAYER complemented with many years of experience in warp beam production from staple fibers and their processing on high-performance warp knitting machines. The manufacturer’s machines are renowned on the market for their maximum efficiency, reliability and quality.
Yarn Properties: Minimal Hairiness, Homogeneous Cross-Section
The first step within the project development was to select fibers and spinning technologies that would result in yarns with reduced hairiness. Low hairiness prevents contamination by lint or flying fibers during the beaming and warp knitting process.
In addition, a uniform yarn cross-section is important. A high level of homogeneity of the yarns ensures the tensile strength required to process several thousand threads at maximum speed on KARL MAYER warp knitting machines. Four different yarns were used, each made from two fiber raw materials and two spinning processes.
Bernd Schleuchardt, Senior Manager – Apparel, Business Development Division, Lenzing, said that the company opted for Ring Compact and SIRO Compact spinning technologies as they ensure yarns with low hairiness and superior performance, resulting in better fabric quality. He added that by combining fibre innovation with strong downstream processing expertise, Lenzing aims to support scalable industrial solutions and create new commercial opportunities for cellulose fibres in warp knitting.
Processing: High Efficiency, Good Quality
The yarn material was warped to a high standard, particularly in terms of lint and used on a high-performance warp knitting machine in a gauge of E 28 with two guide bars. This resulted in three different articles for the clothing sector from each yarn: an open worked three-stitch tulle net, a close-knit fabric made counter-lapped open tricot lap and a fabric made from a counter-lapped atlas lap, also with a dense surface. The yarn material was warped to a high standard, particularly in terms of lint and used on a high-performance warp knitting machine in a gauge of E 28 with two guide bars. The processing tests revealed a clear winner: SIRO Compact impressed with significantly reduced hairiness, resulting in less fiber abrasion and less contamination of the machine.
Markus Otte, Senior Expert – Textile Development at KARL MAYER, said that the project with Lenzing has demonstrated that efficient processing of cellulose fibres on knitting machines is achievable when the right fibers are combined with the appropriate spinning process. He added that the company is currently working on further optimizations to achieve even higher output.